Presenting

E.L.E.C.T.R.A. Mark VIII

A simple, current-limited galvanic electrolysis machine built from common parts, iterated eight times, and documented fairly well!!

Galvanic Electrolysis D.I.Y. Very simple design Breadboard build
What is this? ☕ Buy me a coffee

Section 01

Acknowledgement ✨

The people who made this possible.

This document has the eighth iteration of my (galvanic) electrolysis hair removal machine, which I've named E.L.E.C.T.R.A. Mark VIII. I created this machine after failing to replicate the electrolysis machine created by u/abbxrdy. After spending days trying to make it work, I scrapped the idea and started from scratch with a single goal in mind: make the simplest current-limited galvanic electrolysis machine. And after seven iterations, here we are. This is the latest iteration, the safest and most gentle yet ^^

I started with a really basic design, then with every iteration improved it bit by bit making it safer, gentler, and thoroughly testing it. And I wanted to share it with the community for anyone who has the drive to recreate it :)

I'd like to thank my pals Bhanu and Abee, who really supported me in the making of this machine. I'm grateful for their support along the way :) And grateful and proud of myself for not giving up and putting in the efforts to not just build it for my personal use but to share it with the world ^^

And also I'd like to extend my gratitude to everyone who gave feedback and commented on the Mark VI's posts of this machine 🫶✨ A few specific people I'd like to thank are:

Special thanks

  • u/biosphereprime(formaly known as u/Plus-Egg-2056) thank you for keeping up with how testing and making it was going.
  • u/Adventurous-Dot6178 for pointing out current ramp up and ramp down needed for lower pain.
  • u/FedUp2333 and u/TopConcentrate8484 for pointing out XL-6009 being not as ideal as I thought, and the latter for the tip to use a TVS diode at 5V input ^^

And

  • ✨A Berry special thanks to Styx X3✨

Section 02

What This Is & How It Works (Chemically)

The plain-English version, then the actual chemistry.

It's a simple DC current device that uses galvanic electrolysis to remove hair permanently. We build it from common electronic parts. No soldering required if we use a breadboard.

As far as my research goes regarding its history which didn't go very far the first time galvanic electrolysis was reported in medical literature was in 1875 by an ophthalmologist, for removing ingrown eyelashes. So yeah, pretty old, but one of the most effective hair removal methods. Though in my opinion, Blend and thermolysis are THE BEST ^^

How it works

A small direct current (0.1 to 1 mA) passes through a fine needle (cathode) inserted into the hair follicle, and returns into a pad (anode) held on the skin near the treatment site. The current creates a tiny amount of lye (NaOH) inside the follicle, which destroys the hair follicle.

The chemical reaction

2H₂O + 2Na⁺ + 2e⁻ → H₂ + 2NaOH

Both formed at the needle. The H₂O and Na⁺ come from the tissue themselves!

🧠 ELI5

So it's pretty simple. People have hair they want to get rid of. Electrolysis does that but permanently ✨

Imagine each hair as a plant growing from a pot. We destroy/damage that pot, so the plant that is the hair can never grow back ^^ ✨

Section 03

Cost Estimation ✨

For India. Prices in ₹.

Note: Cost estimation based on the fact that I got most of these components from a local shop near me IRL! I bought the 5KE6.8A diode and the SX1308 from Robu online.

ItemCost (₹)
Resistors and potentiometers60
Capacitors30–50
Transistors10
LM32415
LED10
SX-130840
1N4148 diode5–10
P6KE6.8A or 5KE6.8A30
Multimeter150
Full-size breadboard70
Jumper wires40–100
Connecting wires10–30
FootswitchDepends :3
All non-electrical components<50
Enclosure + sacrificial USB cableAssume free

Total cost estimate → ₹500 to ₹600 (<$7 USD)

💡 Suggestion

Just buy 22 to 23 AWG connecting wires in place of jumper wires and connecting wires.

💡 Tip: buy at least two LM324

Because it's not impossible to kill them. I killed three myself! The first died after I accidentally shorted the XL-6009 output during testing Mark VI. The second died when I accidentally shorted +5V input and the electrolysis needle output in Mark VII. The third died when I was iterating Mark VIII.

💡 Tip: confirm transistor pinouts

Make sure to confirm the pinout of the transistors. Mine 2N2222 flat side were EBC, but I can't guarantee that for every similar NPN transistor and every 2N2222 that they will have the same pinout.

Section 04

Parts List ✨

Please check the attached images of the machine to get an idea of the components!

🛠️ Essential tool

Any capable multimeter!

A] Resistors

I used 5% tolerance ones, though 1% tolerance would be better! All of my resistors are 1/4W, though I do recommend using 1/2W resistors wherever I've mentioned.

RefValueColor codeNotes
R1, R91.5 kΩ🟫🟩🟥1/2W at least
R375 kΩ🟪🟩🟧Or 68k + 7.2k in series
R5500 Ω🟩⬛🟫
R4, R856 kΩ (×2)🟩🟦🟧
R610 kΩ🟫⬛🟧
R713 kΩ🟫🟧🟧Or 12k + 1k in series
R21 kΩ🟫⬛🟥1/2W at least
R10270 Ω🟥🟪🟫1/2W at least
RV1 (Pot-1)5 kΩ linear pot Multiturn would be best, though not necessary

B] Capacitors

RefValueTypeNotes
C2, C7, C80.1 µFCeramic100 nF, ceramic code 104
C5, C622 µF (×2)ElectrolyticRated ≥35V
C3, C41000 µF (×2)ElectrolyticRated ≥35V
C11000 µFElectrolyticRated ≥10V

C] Other electrical components

ItemDetail
Q1, Q2Two 2N2222 or two 2N3904 NPN transistors
ICLM324
D2, D3D3 = red LED (required). D2 = any color (I picked white :3)
D1P6KE6.8A or 5KE6.8A (TVS diode)
D41N4148 diode
Step-up moduleSX-1308 or MT3608 (I used SX-1308)
AmmeterCapable of measuring 0.1 mA (0.0001 A). A DT830D-based cheap multimeter works
BreadboardFull-size (like GL-2). Half-size also possible. Perfboard / custom PCB also fine!
Jumper wiresA few
Solid wires22 AWG solid core, thick insulated copper, or steel binding wire
Sacrificial USB cableAny cheap USB cable will work!!
FootswitchLiterally any switch you can press with a foot. I used a basic cheap push switch.

⚠️ Warning

Don't use XL-6009 as the step-up module.

D] Non-electrical components

ItemDetail
Bolts5 bolts + 10 nuts + 30 washers (for contact points / ports)
Plastic knobsFor the pots!
EnclosureAnything that fits a full-sized breadboard and is sturdy enough. I used a smartphone box (Redmi 9a it had a big box)
EssentialA queer sticker for powering the device (/j)

Section 05

Build Instructions ✨

Follow in order. Don't skip ahead.

Notation

  • I've used four-band resistor code here, omitting the fourth tolerance band (that's not important). I used 5% tolerance ones, though 1% tolerance is recommended.
  • I've also stated rated voltage ratings of capacitors.
  • Ceramic capacitors have a number written on them the ceramic code which represents their capacitance value.
  • 5 kΩ pot = RV1.
  • +5V rail = USB +5V rail.

  1. Configure SX-1308

    Set the SX-1308 to output 27V by turning the small potentiometer screw on the board.

  2. 5V Input

    • Connect the 5V USB power to the input (IN+ / IN−) of the SX-1308 boost converter module.
    • Connect C1 (1000 µF electrolytic, 10V): positive leg → IN+, negative leg → IN−.
    • Connect C2 (0.1 µF ceramic, code 104) directly across IN+ and IN−.
    • Connect D1 (input TVS diode): striped end (cathode) → IN+, non-striped end (anode) → IN−.

  3. SX-1308 Output Before Footswitch

    • Connect SX-1308 OUT− to the blue/black breadboard rail (Main Ground rail).
    • Connect SX-1308 OUT+ to an empty breadboard row (SX-1308 +27V output row).
    • Connect R1 (1.5 kΩ 🟫🟩🟥) from the +27V output row to the longer (positive) leg of D2 (SX1308 output LED).
    • Connect the shorter (negative) leg of D2 directly to the Main Ground rail.
    • Connect C3 (1000 µF, electrolytic, 35V): positive → +OUT row, negative → Main Ground rail.

  4. Footswitch, +V Rail & Inrush Protection

    • Connect one side of R10 (270 Ω 🟥🟪🟫) to the +27V rail.
    • Connect the other side of R10 to one end of the footswitch.
    • Connect the free end of the footswitch to the red breadboard rail (+V rail).
    • Connect C4 (1000 µF, electrolytic, 35V): positive → +V rail, negative → Main Ground rail.
    • Connect C7 (0.1 µF ceramic, code 104): one leg → +V rail, other leg → Main Ground rail.

  5. Treatment Pseudo-Indicator LED

    • Connect R2 (1 kΩ 🟫⬛🟥) from the +V rail to the longer (positive) leg of D3 (red LED).
    • Connect the shorter (negative) leg of D3 directly to the Main Ground rail.

  6. IC Power & Unused Op-Amp Termination

    • Connect LM324 Pin 4 to the +5V rail (USB 5V rail).
    • Connect LM324 Pin 11 to the Main Ground rail.
    • Terminate unused pins: Pin 10 → Pin 11 (ground), Pin 9 → Pin 8, Pin 12 → Pin 11 (ground), Pin 13 → Pin 14.

  7. Reference Voltage Node (V-ref), RV1 & Current Ramp-Up

    For RV1, knob facing you: Left, Middle, Right.

    • Connect R3 (75 kΩ 🟪🟩🟧) from the +V rail to an empty breadboard row (the V-ref row).
    • Connect C5 (22 µF electrolytic, 35V): positive → V-ref row, negative → Main Ground rail.
    • Connect R5 (500 Ω 🟩⬛🟫) from the V-ref row to the Left Pin of RV1 (5 kΩ pot).
    • Connect the Middle Pin and Right Pin of RV1 together, then to the Main Ground rail.
    • Connect R4 (56 kΩ 🟩🟦🟧) from the V-ref row to an empty breadboard row (Time Node row).
    • Connect C6 (22 µF electrolytic, 35V): positive → Time Node row, negative → Main Ground rail.
    • Connect LM324 Pin 5 to the Time Node row.
    • Jumper LM324 Pin 6 → Pin 7.
    • Jumper from LM324 Pin 6 or Pin 7 → Pin 3.

Section 06

Schematic ✨

The full circuit diagram.

Schematics hand drawn by myself , because idk how to make a circuit diagram/schematic digitally yet :3

ELECTRA Mark VIII circuit schematic
ELECTRA Mark VIII complete circuit schematic

Section 07

How It Works Electrically

In one word: magic

E.L.E.C.T.R.A. Mark VIII is a current-limited galvanic electrolysis machine. It simply delivers a set adjustable current through the hair follicle, and dynamically adjusts the output voltage to deliver the set current. Here's how each part makes that happen.

The LM324: The Brain of the machine (with 4 brain cells hehhe)

The LM324 is a quad op-amp. In this circuit, it does two things:

Thing 1: Soft-Start Ramp (U1B)

When we press the footswitch, we don't want the output current to reach the set current instantly, because that would cause unnecessary sharp pain the rate of change in current affects pain felt. So one section of the LM324 (U1B) acts as a buffer. Current ramps up gently over about 3–6 seconds instead of hitting all at once :3

Thing 2: Current Regulation (U1A)

The other section (U1A) compares two voltages and, with that, keeps check on these two currents:

  • the current we want
  • the current we're getting (the voltage across the sense resistor R9, which represents the actual current flowing)

If the actual current is too low, U1A increases its output. If it's too high, U1A decreases its output. It does this continuously, thousands of times per second, keeping the current locked to the setting.

The Transistors: The Valve

The LM324 controls the current by controlling the transistors, which we can think of as valves through which the actual current flows. The circuit works with a single transistor, though a second transistor eliminates the risk of a single-point-failure state of the transistor failing. Hence it makes the circuit safer!

Q1

It is directly controlled by the LM324. Its emitter is connected to the sense resistor (R9). When the LM324 tells Q1 to conduct more, Q1 allows more current to flow through the load. When it tells Q1 to conduct less, Q1 chokes off the current. (Just like a valve controlling the flow of water!)

Q2

This is the failsafe transistor, and makes the whole thing more precise and stable!

The Sense Resistor: The Feedback

R9 (1.5 kΩ) sits between Q1's emitter and ground. All load current flows through it.

Ohm's law says: V = I × R. So the voltage across R9 tells us exactly how much current is flowing. If 0.5 mA flows through R9, the voltage across it is 0.75V.

The LM324 reads this voltage and compares it to the setpoint. If they don't match, it adjusts Q1 until they do.

This is the heart of the feedback loop!!

The Potentiometer: the control knob

Pot-1 (5 kΩ) sets the reference voltage. Turning the knob changes the voltage that the LM324 tries to match across R9.

  • Turn it down → lower setpoint → lower current
  • Turn it up → higher setpoint → higher current

That's it. One knob, full control over current ✨

The Boost Converter: The Power

The SX-1308 takes 5V from USB and boosts it to 27V. Why 27V? Because we need enough voltage to push current through the skin, which can have quite high resistance.

Though you can use any voltage range between 24 to 30V. Though SX-1308 output voltage affects the current range of the machine, so be sure of that! The maximum voltage I would recommend is 30V. As I honestly don't see a point beyond even 27V.

Mark I to Mark VI did have 30V power rails instead. And Mark VII had 24V power.

The Protection Layer

These parts aren't strictly necessary, but they make the machine safer and let me sleep peacefully at night when I'll publish it.

  • TVS diode (D1): Clamps voltage spikes from the USB source, so mainly protects the USB source itself to some extent.
  • Flyback diode (D4): Clamps spikes from the needle.
  • Inrush resistor (R10): Limits current when the footswitch first closes, hence prevents arcing at footswitch contacts.

Putting It Together

  1. We press the footswitch.

  2. The soft current ramp up begins. Voltage rises slowly.

  3. The LM324 compares the ramp voltage to the voltage across R9.

  4. If current is too low, LM324 drives Q1 harder.

  5. Q1 and Q2 allow more current through the load.

  6. Current flows: +V → ammeter → return pad → body → needle → Q2 → Q1 → R9 → ground.

  7. The voltage across R9 rises.

  8. The LM324 sees the match and stabilises.

  9. We treat the hair.

  10. You release the footswitch. Current ramps down.

In a nutshell

The LM324 compares what we want to what we are getting, the transistors deliver it, the sense resistor measures it, and the potentiometer lets us adjust. All of it is powered by a 5V mains-isolated USB power source, which is stepped up to 27V. With safety measures in place.

What Each Part Is For

Power & Control

  • 5V USB power source → Provides the 5V input that powers the SX-1308 and LM324.
  • SX-1308 boost converter module → Steps the 5V input up to an adjustable ≈27V output.
  • IC LM324 → Brain of the machine.
  • Q1 and Q2 (2N2222 or 2N3904) → Current valve controlled by LM324.
  • RV1 (5 kΩ linear pot) → Adjusts the treatment current setpoint by adjusting V-reference.

Resistors

  • R1 (1.5 kΩ) → Limits current through D2 LED.
  • R2 (1 kΩ) → Limits current through D3 LED.
  • R3 (75 kΩ) → Upper resistor from +V rail to V-ref in the reference divider.
  • R4 (56 kΩ) → With C6, kinda sets the soft-start ramp time at the Time Node.
  • R5 (500 Ω) → Series resistor between V-ref and RV1, sets minimum V-ref and minimum current.
  • R6 (10 kΩ) → Base drive resistor from LM324 pin 1 to Q1 base.
  • R7 (13 kΩ) → Lower bias resistor from Q2 base to ground.
  • R8 (56 kΩ) → Upper bias resistor from +V rail to Q2 base.
  • R9 (1.5 kΩ) → Sense resistor.
  • R10 (270 Ω) → Inrush/current-limiting resistor between +27V output and footswitch, prevents arcing and limits peak inrush current.

Capacitors

  • C1 (1000 µF, 10V electrolytic) → Bulk smoothing capacitor for the 5V input.
  • C2 (0.1 µF ceramic, code 104) → Decoupling capacitor on the 5V input.
  • C3 (1000 µF, 35V electrolytic) → Output reservoir capacitor for the SX-1308 before the footswitch.
  • C4 (1000 µF, 35V electrolytic) → Reservoir capacitor, responsible for slow ramp down.
  • C5 (22 µF, 35V electrolytic) → Filters and steadies the V-ref node.
  • C6 (22 µF, 35V electrolytic) → Soft-start timing capacitor on the Time Node.
  • C7 (0.1 µF ceramic, code 104) → Decoupling cap on the +V rail.
  • C8 (0.1 µF ceramic, code 104) → Capacitor across LM324 pins 1 and 2.

Diodes & LEDs

  • D1 (input TVS diode) → Clamps voltage spikes on the 5V USB input.
  • D2 (red LED) → Indicates the SX-1308 output is present before the footswitch.
  • D3 (red LED) → Indicates the switched +V rail is active.
  • D4 (1N4148) → Flyback/clamp diode from Q2 collector to +V rail, protects Q2 from inductive spikes.

Section 08

Specifications ✨

Numbers from my actual build.

ParameterValueNotes
SX-1308 input5V mains-isolated USB sourceMomentarily sags to 3V every time footswitch is pressed
SX-1308 output27V (26.8V)26.8V instead of 27V because my SX-1308's pot sucks literally cannot set it to exact 27V
Current range0.1 mA – 1.08 mA
Max output voltage24.2 V
Max avg. current from USB≈290 mAMeasured
Max avg. current from SX-1308≈42 mAMeasured
Max avg. power from USB≈1.45 W
Max avg. power from SX-1308≈1.13 W
SX-1308 efficiency at max power≈78%Calculated

Note: maximum values of current are measured with a test load of zero ohm.

Ramp-up / ramp-down times

Measured with a 12 kΩ load.

Current 90% 95% 99% Ramp down
0.1 mA3.6 s4.7 s8.26 s2.96 s
0.3 mA3.4 s4.3 s6.3 s2.4 s
0.6 mA3.55 s4.55 s6.55 s1.9 s
1 mA3.9 s4.8 s7 s1.7 s

Note: these ramp-up and ramp-down times are not highly accurate. I measured them by video recording my multimeter's readings, then reviewing and noting down readings. I took three readings for each number and reported the average. The inaccuracies come from my multimeter being a bit slow, the video being recorded at 30fps, and basic human error.

Substitutions I actually used

These are numbers from what I assembled I didn't use exact resistor values as given, because I couldn't find a few resistors! And all of my resistors have a tolerance of 5%.

  • Used a 68k + 7.2k Ω in series = 75.2 kΩ instead of a single 75 kΩ.
  • Used a 12k + 1k Ω in series instead of a single 13 kΩ.
  • Used two 1 kΩ resistors in parallel instead of a single 500 Ω.

Section 09

Testing & Calibration ✨

Do these tests in this order.

  1. Secure components

    Make sure all the components are secure, especially if you've built on a breadboard.

  2. Check electrolytic capacitor polarity

    Make sure the polarity of the electrolytic capacitors is correct. I've heard they can literally pop if connected wrong.

  3. Check diode polarity

    Make sure the polarity of all the diodes is correct.

  4. Continuity check

    Check with multimeter on continuity mode that all components are connected correctly. At minimum, check that the power rails are not shorted and that everything that should be connected to power rails is connected. Re-check against the instructions.

  5. Power up (isolated source only)

    After all this, if everything seems alright, now we can get electrons involved properly. Connect the USB input to a power bank or any other 5V USB source that is completely isolated from mains.

  6. Test with load resistors

    We'll use a jumper wire (our zero-ohm resistor), a 1k, and a 12k Ω resistor to test the machine across different current ranges.

    Connect each test resistor to one lead of the ammeter, and the other lead to one of the output electrodes of the machine, then connect the second lead of the ammeter to the remaining output electrode. The ammeter and resistor should be in series across both output electrode terminals of the machine.

    Measure the minimum and maximum current for each test resistor, along with rough ramp-up and ramp-down times. If the machine is working correctly, the values you get should roughly align with those in the Specifications section.

Section 10

How Much Current to Use ✨

Start low. Really low.

The main thing is units of lye. Figure out how many units of lye you need for the specific group of hair you're treating, then use this formula based on your preference:

Units of lye = current (mA) × time (seconds)

In my opinion, 0.3 mA is a good starting point, especially for body hair. And 0.7 mA is the maximum current I've used for 30±5 seconds, and only on my testosterone-based facial hair.

Though I have used current as high as 1 mA on my body hair just for science it came with extra pain but sub-ten-second treatment time (FOR BODY HAIR). Though yeah, I definitely do not recommend that.

Rough reference by hair type

Note: for rough reference only

Hair / Follicle Type Current Range (mA DC) Time Range (seconds) Approx. Lye Units
Vellus / very fine, shallow hair0.1–0.310–202–5
Fine body hair, shallow follicle0.2–0.415–255–10
Medium body or limb hair0.3–0.520–3010–15
Coarse terminal hair: underarm, bikini0.4–0.625–4015–25
Deep coarse beard or pubic hair0.5–0.830–5025–40
Very resistant, deep, coarse hair0.6–1.040–60+40–60+

Time examples at 0.3 mA

Note: for rough reference only

Lye UnitsTime at 0.3 mAHair Type
5~17 secFine
10~33 secMedium
1550 secMedium/coarse
20~67 secCoarse
30100 sec (1 min 40 sec)Deep coarse
40~133 sec (2 min 13 sec)Very resistant

Time examples at 0.7 mA

Note: for rough reference only

Lye UnitsTime at 0.7 mAHair Type
5~7 secFine
10~14 secMedium
15~21 secMedium/coarse
20~29 secCoarse
30~43 secDeep coarse
40~57 secVery resistant

⚠️ Be conservative

A formula cannot feel your skin. Start at the lowest setting and work up. If it stings sharply, if the skin blanches white, or if you see a mark forming stop, turn it down, and let the area rest.

Section 11

Troubleshooting ✨

What went wrong, and why.

If any of the following happens resistors start burning, LM324 gets hot after 10–15 seconds, capacitors swell up, or SX-1308 heats up then this indicates there's a fault in the connections, most probably a short, and components may have gotten damaged.

LM324 getting hot

Check the current flowing through its pin 4. If it's ≈32.5 mA, that means the great quad op-amp has fallen the LM324 is dead. Something killed it: a wrong connection, a transient voltage spike, a subatomic particle, or who knows what.

Swelled capacitor

Usually means you connected the capacitor incorrectly. Be glad it didn't blow up (yet).

Nothing works, but no smoke

Disconnect power and use the multimeter in continuity mode to check that everything is connected properly.

Output is off and pot doesn't adjust it

That may be a sign that the pot isn't connected properly.

Breadboard gremlins

If you've built on a breadboard, loose connections will haunt you until you tighten them somehow. When I first assembled Mark VIII, it didn't output any current. I spent half an hour figuring out what was wrong. At last, I took out the transistors to check if they were damaged (they weren't), re-inserted them, and the machine came to life.

Section 12

How to Use (Treatment Protocol) ✨

If you're using it on yourself, you're on your own risk :3

After all the tests, if the machine is behaving correctly, you may use it on yourself. Below is the ideal way to do it even though I use it really non-ideally (I use a DIY probe holder, a DIY electrolysis needle, and a dog tag as the return electrode). So yeah, don't do what I'm doing here's the ideal way you should use it!

1. Preparations

  • Clean and disinfect the needle holder, return electrode, and other necessary surfaces.
  • Wash hands with soap properly. You can use eye protection if needed (like if you're scared of poking your eye, perhaps :3)
  • Gather around the machine: sterile disposable probe(s), probe holder, return electrode, footswitch, forceps/tweezers/plucker, magnifier/lamp (optional but useful), sharps container to dispose needles if you choose to :3
  • Do a small test patch in the area where you plan to actually treat first! Like a few (3–10) hairs. And see how your skin responds.

2. Turn on and prepare the machine

  • Connect the footswitch, probe holder, and return electrode before powering on.
  • Plug the machine USB into a power bank, isolated from mains.
  • And also, it's good practice to keep yourself isolated from the earth/ground.
  • Turn the machine ON and test maximum and minimum current ranges by simply connecting both output electrodes, to confirm the machine is working properly.
  • Confirm polarity: the needle/probe should be the cathode (–) and the return electrode the anode (+). Reversed polarity is no bueno.
  • Attach the return electrode securely near the area you're treating. The nearer the better :3 Make sure that the heart is never in the path of current. Like if you're treating your face, don't place the return electrode on your hand ideally secure it on your neck. Though I've heard actual electrologists don't bother with that and place the return electrode in the hand while treating the face. So idk, either be super cautious like me, or do your research ^^
  • Set the current. I would recommend 0.3 mA and not to exceed 0.8 mA. And don't use beyond 0.3 mA before you've accumulated some experience use the lye chart to get a rough estimate!

3. Skin preparation

  • Position the area under as good lighting as possible.
  • Cleanse the treatment area with an appropriate antiseptic (like 70% isopropyl alcohol).
  • Stretch the skin taut.

4. Insertion

  • Hold the probe like a pencil. Insert it gently along the natural angle of the hair follicle.
  • Advance to the depth of the hair bulb/papilla. Do not force or jab. Any resistance is A BAD SIGN the follicles are really shallower than you would expect!!
  • The probe should slide in smoothly. If it doesn't, withdraw and re-angle.
  • Keep the probe still once at depth.

5. Apply galvanic current

  • Press and hold the footswitch for the time you've decided to treat for.
  • You may feel warmth, tingling, or a mild sting. Strong pain means the current or time is too high, or the insertion is poor.
  • Lift your foot from the footswitch after the hair is treated for the decided time. Wait for the current to turn near zero before removing the probe removing the needle before current turns near zero is likely to sting.
  • Observe the skin for excessive redness, blanching, or burning. Stop immediately if this occurs!! Some inflammation and irritation is expected.
  • Galvanic is slower than thermolysis or blend, so we can't rush.

6. Release and remove the hair

  • After treating, wait at least 5–10 seconds to allow the lye to work.
  • Using forceps, gently lift the hair. A properly treated hair should slide out without resistance.
  • If it resists, do not pull. Reinsert and treat again with appropriate settings, or better, leave it for another session.
  • Never pluck or tug untreated hairs.

7. Immediate post-treatment

Apply a mild antiseptic or soothing aftercare. There are plenty of videos on YouTube about that. I just use ice/cold water right afterwards and a gentle cleanser later on.

8. Aftercare instructions

  • Keep the area clean and dry. Wash gently with a mild cleanser.
  • Do not pick, scratch, or pop any scabs or blisters.
  • If necessary, use a gentle moisturizer though only if it doesn't irritate the skin. Or use aloe vera gel; I've heard it's soothing after electrolysis and recommended.
  • Avoid sun exposure. Use a high-SPF mineral sunscreen once healed, to avoid inflammatory pigmentation.
  • Avoid swimming, saunas, hot tubs, steam rooms, and intense exercise for 24–48 hours.
  • Avoid waxing, tweezing, threading, and hair removal creams between sessions. Shaving is usually okay after 24–48 hours if the skin is not irritated.
  • Avoid retinoids, AHAs, vitamin C serum, or any strong exfoliants on the treated area for several days.
  • Redness, mild swelling, and small crusts are common and usually settle in a few days.
  • If you see pus, spreading redness, increasing pain, fever, or blisters see a doctor!!

9. Cleanup and documentation

  • Disinfect the machine, probe holder, and work surfaces.
  • Remove gloves (if used) and wash hands.
  • Document because it's useful. Stuff like date, area treated, probe type, current, time, skin reaction, hairs treated, aftercare given or anything! You may end up thanking yourself for that ^^

Troubleshooting basics

  • Hair not releasing: poor insertion, insufficient current/time.
  • Too much pain/burning: reduce current or time, check insertion, ensure return electrode contact. It hurt like the needle was red-hot the first few times for me, because I was stabbing myself instead of just inserting the needle into the follicle. Took me like 30+ hairs to realize that. Gladly it was my knee, and it only left a few black scabs that peeled off on their own in about 2–3 weeks, leaving a smooth hairless patch of skin ^^
  • Zero current on ammeter: check all connections, footswitch, probe, and machine.
  • Excessive skin reaction: stop, apply soothing aftercare, and reassess settings next session.

Section 13

My Experience & Why I Built This

The honest version.

My experience has been like this:

Mark VI

I treated 60+ hairs. I didn't know how to insert the needle properly it didn't help that I make and use my own needles. So I literally stabbed my skin the first couple of times. It hurt like hell when I was stabbing myself like that, though I learnt. But the needle still stung because Mark VI had no significant current ramp up or ramp down.

Mark VII my favourite

Treated quite a few body hairs. At 0.3 mA with proper insertion, treating body hair was almost painless. And then I finally treated four testosterone-based facial hairs, from above my lip area! And the healing was smooth I literally couldn't notice any signs of electrolysis ^^

Mark VIII

Treated thirty eight body hairs on my other knee!and treated four hair of my chin. Without any scarring , marks , pigmentation or anything bad at all!

But why?

I'm broke. I'll say it.

Somehow affording my HRT from the money I could save up that my parents give me. And well, I have enough saved up to afford it for months to come! It helps financially that I take my estrogen in the form of estradiol stickies.

And well, like most transfemmes, I hate my testosterone-based facial hair. It grows so fast, shaving it is a chore, and there's still beard shadow left. So this made the most financial sense to me!

I can't afford laser or professional electrolysis. IPL is magnitudes more expensive than what I spend on my electrolysis machine even though I spent a bit more because of having to literally iterate it from scratch. It would be slow, treating my facial hair. But it's something :))

Every hair I get rid of is a hair less that makes me feel not to look for too long in the mirror.

And seeing electrolysis machines made by other people and then successfully treating themselves gave me hope. And because of that hope, I'm here with a functioning electrolysis machine on my desk, four less hairs on my face, and a satisfaction inside :)

Section 14

Version History

Eight iterations, documented.

Mark I Basic proof of concept

Bare bones. No safety measures. Single transistor. No current ramp up or ramp down. Current range too high. High leakage current.

Mark II

Added a second transistor.

Mark III

Added a few capacitors for slow ramp up (it wasn't significant, tbh).

Mark IV

Changed footswitch position, and fixed leakage current issue.

Mark V

Fixed the current ranges and better arrangement.

Mark VI First publicly shared iteration

First iteration I used on myself. 30V power rail. No significant current ramp up or ramp down. No safety diodes.

Mark VII

Added current ramp up & ramp down. TVS protection planned. Reduced power rail to 24V. Flyback diode. Better filtering. Added output indicator LED. New current range and better documentation.

Problem found: sometimes, due to the 5V supply sagging as much as 3.2V, the XL-6009 panics and gets stuck outputting 32V, which shifts the set current roughly 0.3 to 0.4 mA higher than set.

Mark VIII Current version

Replaced XL-6009 with SX1308 (a significant upgrade), which fixed the whole "XL-6009 panic" problem. Hella better output voltage stability, hence increased safety, better efficiency (I measured XL-6009 efficiency to be 55% under max config, while SX1308 had an efficiency of 78%), lower output noise, smaller size, and reduces the number and values of components that were previously needed to mitigate XL-6009's issues. Added a few more capacitors. Tweaked the value of some resistors. The treatment indicator LED is now red. Added the P6KE6.8A TVS diode at the 5V input to protect the USB source from transient voltage spikes. Changed the voltage by which LM324 is powered from 27-ish volts to 5V, to prevent LM324 from dropping dead 💀

Note: we got better at documenting changes, rather than changing more things per iteration :3

Section 15

Comparison with Professional Electrolysis

Aspect DIY (This Build) Professional
Cost ₹500–600 one-time (approx. $5–6) ₹500–1500 per session* (approx. $5–16)
Current type Galvanic only Galvanic, thermolysis, or blend
Speed Slow (~5–30 sec per hair) Fast (~1–5 sec per hair)
Pain Manageable at low currents Well-managed by professional
Results Permanent if done correctly Permanent
Safety DIY risk Trained professional, sterile
Skin types All All
Learning curve Steep None (pro does it)
Time investment High Low
Regulation Unapproved Licensed and regulated

*Actual electrolysis session price highly varies by region to region and by clinic to clinic , cost stated here is regards with India

Honest take: Professional electrolysis is faster, safer, and more reliable. This DIY version is for people who can't afford or access professional treatment, or who want to learn and build. If you can afford professional sessions, go professional. This is a fallback, not a replacement.

Section 16

Future Improvements

Ideas I'm dumping here so my brain stops bothering me.

I have ZERO improvements planned for it at the time of writing this (Oct 15, 2026). I've spent almost two months working on it, documenting it, and I'm tired 🥹 Every time I got an idea after making Mark VII, I was like "can we just stop iterating it 😭" but my brain didn't get the memo and still pops up ideas. So I'm gonna dump a few I can remember now:

📊 Built-in ammeter

Instead of relying on an external one.

⏱️ Adjustable ramp timers

Separate controls for ramp up and ramp down time. Not hard to design and implement, honestly.

📦 Better enclosure

Like a custom enclosure.

🔧 Compact build

Perfboard or prototyping build, or a half-size breadboard build (possible with current design).

🔋 Battery powered

Using MT3608 or SX1308 as step-up module. Just connect to a 2S li-ion cell, a 12V lead acid battery, or something else. If I were to do that, I'd go with two standard 18650s with a BMS, charged separately. An input voltage higher than 5V is a good thing, especially from a battery though don't go over a 12V battery pack. Or use a non-rechargeable 9V battery, which should last pretty long since the power drawn is smol. Or have a 24V or 27V battery pack and remove the step-up module directly, but then add a linear voltage regulator to power the LM324 at a lower voltage, since the LM324 has an upper voltage max of 32V, and it's easy to kill an LM324 with a transient voltage spike when powering it with higher voltages. And a fuse would be a good idea too, in case of a short in my case the maximum power even in a short was limited to 5W with a battery-powered setup, who knows!!

🎯 Custom PCB

SMD components + 3D-printed custom enclosure that could fit in a pocket! But wait that already exists!!! Hehehe, what an awesome time to be alive.

🛑 Automatic shutoff

Cuts power after Z seconds to prevent accidental over-treatment.

🔔 Current limit alarm

Buzzer if current exceeds a safe threshold.

🎯 Precision resistors

Metal film instead of carbon, for tighter tolerance.

⚡ Better V-reference

Independent of the input voltage! Like with a linear voltage regulator. Then the current range wouldn't drift with the input voltage!

🔀 Different op-amp

Like a dual op-amp. The LM324 has four op-amps and we're only using two anyway.

Better designs exist, and I've posted about them on r/diyelectrolysis.

Section 17

FAQ

Meow meow meow meow meow meow meow meow meow meow meow meow meow meow meow mrrp mrrrp heheeheh

Section 18

Resources

Component Sourcing (India)

  • Robu.in Wide range of components, modules, and tools. I personally bought the SX1308 and P6KE6.8A diodes from here.
  • Local shop THE best for buying most of the electrical components. I got most of my components from a local shop that had a large inventory, as they sell in bulk to technicians. May their shop always keep flourishing ✨

Electrical Learning Resources

  • How to use a breadboard: https://youtu.be/W6mixXsn-Vc you need to understand power rails and how rows are connected.
  • How to measure voltage, current, continuity, test diodes and transistors: https://youtu.be/oI_CJA31GV4 for this project, you need DC voltage, DC current (20mA range), diode mode and continuity mode.

Actually learning electrolysis

Books (I haven't read any of these myself, btw)

  • Electrolysis Handbook (PDF)
  • Electrolysis and Hair Removal (Milady's Advanced Services)
  • The Principles and Practice of Electrical Epilation by Sheila Godfrey
  • Cosmetic and Medical Electrolysis and Temporary Hair Removal
  • Sterex "Electrolysis Treatment Techniques"

Community

  • r/diyelectrolysis (I created this one :3)
  • r/electrolysis
  • r/hairremoval
  • r/electronics
  • r/diyelectronics
  • r/AskElectronics

Notable DIY Electrolysis Projects

Section 19

Before You Build Checklist ✨

Tick every box. If you can't tick one, don't start.

0 of 12 completed

Section 20

Disclaimer ✨

⚠️ Read this fully

This is not medical advice. I am not a doctor, nurse, electrologist, engineer, or medical professional (yet). I am just a silly gal who built this for personal use, because I'm CRAZYYYYYY and also very cute too 😌✨

Use at your own risk. Galvanic electrolysis involves passing electrical current through human skin. Improper use can cause:

  • Unnecessary pain
  • Burns
  • Scarring
  • Infection
  • Hyperpigmentation (dark spots)
  • Hypopigmentation (light spots)
  • Nerve damage
  • Cardiac events (maybe only if the current path crosses the heart)

🚫 Do not use if you:

  • Have a pacemaker or implanted electronic device
  • Have a heart condition
  • Are pregnant
  • Have epilepsy
  • Have any skin condition at the treatment site
  • Have diabetes (poor wound healing)

🚫 Do not use on:

  • Face, neck, or upper chest (unless you really know what you're doing) do I know what I was doing when I used it on my face? …well, maybe?
  • Genitals
  • Near eyes (LITERALLY PLEASE DON'T)
  • Moles, freckles, or raised skin
  • Broken or irritated skin

✅ Always:

  • Use sterile, single-use needles
  • Keep current below 1 mA
  • Start with the lowest current and shortest time according to the lye chart
  • Stop immediately if you feel really sharp pain, burning, or see sparks
  • Never leave the device unattended
  • Never use while tired, intoxicated, or distracted :3

⚡ Electrical safety:

  • Use an isolated 5V USB power source (power bank, not mains-connected charger)
  • Never connect to mains voltage
  • Keep away from water
  • Inspect all wiring before each use

📜 Legal:

  • This device is not approved by any regulatory body (FDA, CE, BIS, UFP, plumbers, coalition of planets, Wilford industries etc.)
  • Building or using this device may violate local laws (gladly not where I live)
  • I assume no liability for any harm caused by this design
  • This documentation is for educational purposes only

🚨 If something goes wrong:

  • Disconnect power immediately
  • Clean the area with antiseptic
  • Apply burn cream if needed
  • Seek medical attention if burns, infection, or persistent pain occur
Final words of caution, because why not: This device is not a toy. It is a DIY medical device that can cause harm if misused. The fact that it works at low currents does not make it risk-free. Respect the current. Respect your body. If something feels wrong, stop immediately. You are responsible for your own safety. If you are not confident in your ability to build and use this safely, do not build it.

Section 21

Support My Transition ☕

If you want to help me in keep affording my hrt then consider buying me a coffee!

☕ Buy me a coffee